It is now official. The rainy season will last for three
more months. This comes as a surprise to me as I have already been
going out my door with umbrella in hand and returning with wet feet
for some time. The official day for the beginning of the rains is
the Buddhist holiday Khao Phansa, also known as 'the rains retreat.'
This holiday falls on the day after the full moon on the eighth
lunar month (July) and is an important religious event. Monks take
up permanent residences for the next three months and many males
choose to enter the monkhood during this time. With the fields all
planted and rain falling most every day, what better time for
teaching, studying and religious contemplation?
Khao Pansa originates from Buddhism's early origins in India when
people stayed in permanent dwellings during the rainy season to
avoid stepping on and destroying newly-planted seeds. The tradition
was carried over to Thailand in the Lord Buddha's teachings and
continues to this day.
Asanlaha Bucha Day, also known as Buddhist Lent, falls on the day
before Khao Pansa (on the full moon) and marks the day of the Lord
Buddha's first sermon after obtaining enlightenment. Buddhist Lent
lasts as long as the rains retreat (three months) and during this
time, many will choose to give up smoking, drinking alcohol or other
forms of inappropriate behaviour as a symbol of their faith. Laymen
also spend more time listening to sermons at temples and in
meditation during this highly religious period.
As part of the celebration beautiful and ornate candles
of all shapes and sizes and made out of beeswax will be donated to
the temples by institutions and individuals alike. Besides serving
the practical purpose of lighting the temple and the monks' sleeping
area, the candles are also symbolic: they represent not only an
illuminated room but also an illuminated mind. Candlelit processions
take place all over the country at night. People walk with lotus
buds, joss sticks and candle held in prayer-like fashion around the
temple three times before setting these offerings down on the temple
altars; a beautiful sight to behold indeed!
During these holidays, laymen give more financial and/or physical
support to their temple. Besides offering candles, new robes, food
and other basic supplies are also brought to the monasteries. It is
a time of spiritual vigour. A change takes place in Thailand. Almost
everywhere you look people are preparing food, purchasing candles,
toting gifts, getting dressed up in modest but beautiful clothing
and heading towards the temples. Many businesses are closed for
these two holiday days and alcohol is not sold in entertainment
venues or restaurants.
I spoke to 28-year-old Diow (meaning 'alone' in English) about
the meaning of Buddhist Lent. He works as a tuk-tuk driver and is
the father of three and was very excited to have the chance to
explain his religion and culture to me. He stated, "This holiday
makes sense not just in the spiritual sense but in a practical
sense, too. The men are not needed to work in the fields so it is a
good time for them to become monks. Every man should become a monk.
It is an honour to your parents, it is the way to become a man, it
is important for your heart. The monks stay inside during the rains.
It is important not to step on the newly planted seeds, so it makes
sense that the monks stay inside. This is not followed as closely as
it used to be, especially in the big towns, but a monk should not
change the place he stays during this time."
"The fields are planted and people have to wait for
harvest. It is the financial low-point of the year for Thailand, so
it makes sense to give up smoking or drinking not just for your
spirit but for your wallet. If you have money and do not have to
work, it is a good time to go to the temple and take a vacation, but
I have to work on these holidays. If I did not, I would take my
family to the temple and then have food and drink, but definitely
not any whisky on these days!"
With over 95 percent of the Thai population belonging to the
Buddhist faith, important religious holidays such as Khao Pansa and
Asanlaha Bucha Day are as important and noticeable as Christmas or
Thanksgiving would be back home. There is something beautiful and
moving watching processions of candles and gifts making their way to
the temples. It is a tranquil time. As the rains get ready to fall
even harder, the country prepares itself for a time of peace and
quiet, both inside the heart and outside the home.