ATIS Known internationally as sweetsop, sugar
apple or custard apple, the Atis is one fruit you can easily grow even if
you have only a square meter of soil. The atis tree grow just about
anywhere a seed falls. And it grows fast so that you can get to harvest
fruits in a little over a year from seedling stage. A tree bears fruits
about three times a year: in the summer, during rainy season and towards
Christmas. The best batch of fruits, those with thicker and sweeter flesh,
comes out in the summer.
And if you're interested in growing an
atis tree in your backyard, here's a warning: bats and birds love the
fruit. This means that you have to harvest the fruits once these are
mature. Don't wait for the fruits to ripen (which would actually give you
the sweetest type of atis) as the bats and birds may beat you to that one
big fruit you've been reserving for yourself.
BATWAN
The taste is sour but not acidic, a
tartness that promotes saliva in the mouth without impacting on the
stomach, the way vinegar or even kalamansi often does. This is the kind
of sourness only batwan can deliver. An important part of the souring
arsenal of cooks in Negros Occidental and some parts of Panay, batwan is
actually found in abundance in Bohol and Mindanao. However, there is no
tradition of eating this fruit in these places said Ponchit
Ponce-Enrile, general manager of the Eduardo Cojuanco, Jr. and Sons
Farms in Negros Occidental. It seems that only Negrenses and cooks in
certain parts of Panay have discovered the flavors of batwan. Batwan is
close cousin of mangosteen, being under the genus garcinia. And indeed,
they have similarities; batwan actually looks like green and stunted
mangosteen.
Usually selling between P30 to P40 a kilo, seasonal
batwan can command as much as P80 a kilo when it disappears from the
markets, which cannot be forecasted. The manner to propagate batwan has
remained a mystery, except in the ECJ and Sons farms here in Negros
Occidental, where some 10 hectares have been planted to this fruit in
what could very well be the country's first batwan plantation. Ponce
Enrile said salting is one way of preserving batwan. However, while this
traps its one of a kind sourness, it also retains its saltiness.
DUHAT
Don't ignore these purple
berries this summer when they're aplenty. And if no one has yet shown you
how to eat duhat properly, read on. Put ripe berries in a deep bowl, wash
them in running water then drain. Sprinkle with salt, cover the bowl with
a plate and shake the bowl vigorously for about 30 seconds. Remove the
plate cover. Note that you've practically made a mess in the bowl but no
matter. Place a berry one at a time on your tongue and bite on the fruit
tenderly. Utmost pleasure, really. But beware - the color stains clothes
so eat carefully.
DALANDAN
The local orange. Or
what's left of it. In the '60s, we had a variety of local oranges that
were big, juicy and sweet. The ladu variety, which was common then, had a
deep green and orange peeling that had the shape of, but was much bigger
than, the ponkan. A really special variety which delighted many people was
the suwikom variety, which had very firm but very sweet pulp bits. There
were many varieties that grew in Batangas. Too bad a pestilence killed
these oranges trees in the late '60s. Now we're left with these small
fruits that are often too sour for eating, but are very juicy and perfect
for making into juice.
DAYAP
The local lemon or lime.
Among traditional cooks it is the critical flavoring for leche flan and
macapuno because it keeps the rich desserts from being too sweet. I put a
slice of dayap into my glass of Coke and noted that my soda had a fuller,
heartier taste. Dayap is also said to be the equivalent of key lime, which
grows in Florida and is often made into pies. I met an elderly woman in
Bulacan who said that she sculpts the dayap rind before pickling the
fruits when these are in season. I should see that work of
art.
KALAMANSI Very popular as a souring
agent is the kalamansi. This little green lime, which is indigenous to the
country, plays a giant role in Philippine cuisine. It is squeezed into
juice and punches, into hot tea, over pansit, into arroz caldo, over
charcoal-grilled fish, over kinilaw, and is an important ingredient in
innumerable dipping sauces (sawsawan). When used as a sawsawan, kalamansi
is often mixed with patis (fish sauce) or soy sauce for that indescribable
sour-salty taste.
Don't throw away those kalamansi peels. They
effectively wash away the lingering smell of seafood after picking on them
with the hands. Or dip them into dishwashing solutions to produce a lemony
fragrance. Enterprising Filipinos have come up with bottled pure kalamansi
extract flavored with honey. It is a welcome idea as it spares us the task
of having to squeeze each tiny fruit of its juice. Mixed with ice cold
water it makes a refreshing drink. One restaurant even came up with a
dessert called calamansi tart, in which this native fruit takes the place
of lemon as the main flavoring.
KAMANSI
This
fruit is being sold in a vegetable cart with squash and string beans. They
looked like underdeveloped langka or jackfruit, little round langka with
the same green spiny cover. This fruit is never allowed to mature and
ripen. It is cooked in its infantile stage into a vegetable dish, with
coconut milk.
MACAPUNO The macapuno is a mutant of the coconut. Until I had to write this
piece, I thought that the macapuno fruit is just an abnormal outgrowth of
the regular coconut tree as I had learned as a child. Not anymore, the
Philippine Coconut Authority corrected me. The Authority has developed
macapuno trees that yield 80 per cent macapuno fruits. The trees grow in
abundance in Albay where the Authority's research center is.
The
macapuno fruit looks like the regular niyog except that it is bigger.
Farmers have a way of knocking on the nut to determine if they have
macapuno or niyog. The macapuno meat is as thick as the niyog but softer,
making it easy to grate. Macapuno is cooked with sugar, sometimes with
dayap for flavor, and served as a dessert. Local ice cream makers also
have macapuno flavors.
MANGOSTEEN
This fruit often regarded
as one of the four most delicious fruits in the world along with the
mango, pineapple, and cherimoya. Let me add that the mangosteen is also
such an elegantly designed fruit. If it were a movie personality, the
mangosteen would be Audrey Hepburn. Outside, it is a perfect round of deep
purple with a petite green crown. Gently break through the skin and you
understand why it is quite thick - encased within the deep pink shell is
the delicate white meat of the mangosteen. Take time to admire the colors
before you yank out the segments. You don't chew on the meat, by the way.
You simply let it slide with your tongue and suck on the juice, taking
care not to bite the seed. You will most likely encounter sour pieces but
the sourness is tempered and not unpleasant.
MAKOPA
What a waste these
makopas are when the trees are in bloom. The pink and bright red bells are
so attractive and the trees produce so much fruit but, alas, there are so
few takers. The best way to eat makopas is chilled, with a sprinkling of
salt. Watch out for worms, though, as you reach the core. Or, make them
into salads as some creative housewives have.
MARANG
Bet you never knew how it looks, much
less how it tastes. Marang smells like durian (though subdued), looks like
langka, and feels like atis. Outside, it looks like a rounded brush (the
one we call scuba), brown and soft, even bristles. They are ripe when they
start to smell, so don't think you're getting a rotten one if the bristles
start to get ugly.
I brought one to the office and everyone was
inquiring where the smell was coming from. It was the first time we were
going to taste the fruit. General assessment: very sweet. I look forward
to eating it again.
PAHO
Yes, these are legitimate
fruits, not undeveloped mangoes. I had thought these were known to
Batanguenos alone but these are familiar in many regions. But I am told of
a gentleman farmer in Tarlac who, upon seeing the paho fruits, thought
that he had a diseased mango tree and promptly cut it down.
The
paho has a bearable sourness that lingers in the tastebuds long after the
meal. In Batangas, paho is eaten raw. Mixed with chopped tomatoes and
onions flavored with soy sauce, it is the perfect accompaniment to fish,
be it tawilis, tulingan or maliputo. I associate paho with an aunt who had
the knack of mixing paho, tomato, and soy sauce into just the right blend
that I always asked for a spoonful of the concoction deftly mixed with
rice and fish. In some households, paho is pickled brine. But doiong so
takes away the pungency that makes the fruit so special.
PAPAYA
This one versatile
tropical fruit. When ripe, it is eaten fresh or mixed with milk and sugar
to make a papaya shake. When still raw, it is cooked with chicken to make
into tinola, or shredded and flavored with vinegar and spices to make into
achara.
There are several varities of papaya. The solo is the mini
papaya, so-called because it is meant to be eaten by just one person. Its
orange-colored flesh is firm and sweet. The distinctive mark of the morado
is that its flesh is pinkish. Unlike regular papaya, the morado flesh is
not very sweet but it is light and refreshing.
SINEGUELAS
Many people always associated
sineguelas with the spookiness of its tree before it bore fruit. The
sineguelas tree sheds off all its leaves before it flowers, and the fruits
appear just in time for the summer. Wait for the fruits to turn red
because that's when they're sweet and juicy. Nutritionists tell us that
the sineguelas is loaded with Vitamin C.
TIESSA
This heart-shaped, orang-yellow
summer fruit is said to be one of the best sources of vitamin A. Eating
tiessa is like eating boiled kamote (sweet potatoes), given its fibrous,
sticky texture and thick flesh. But it has a cloying sweetness that makes
one fruit too much for just one person to finish.
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